We woke up today in beautiful Mittimatalik, which is located at the north end of Baffin Island in the Qikiqtaaluk Region of Nunavut. Qikiqtaaluk in Inuktitut means ‘big Island’, and correctly so as it is the fifth largest island on the planet. National Geographic Explorer was not the only ship in the Eclipse Sound, just off the aft deck was anchored a Royal Canadian Navy vessel and a cargo ship from Montreal. Cargo ships deliver bulk goods to all Nunavut communities every summer/fall season, these goods are supplies that must last throughout the winter season. Mittimatalik waters are covered in ice for approximately 8.5 months out of the year so fresh produce must be flown into the community every other day. Hunting for food and clothing is still a way of life up here for almost all community members, animals such as seals, muskox, caribou, arctic hare, all types of birds, beluga whales, also two other animals that have a controlled seasonal quota; the narwhal and polar bears.
After our breakfast onboard we went ashore in Zodiacs and were met by a welcome party of Inuit women dressed in traditional sealskin amautiq. Amautiq are a type of parka that have a large pouch on the back in which to carry their young children, also a large hood to provide cover from the elements for both mother and child. Guests had the choice to either walk along the beach to Salmon Creek, called Qilalukkat by the local Inuit, which translates to “where the narwhal are.” In Qilalukkat there are a number of sod houses which date back about 50 – 60 years, Inuit temporarily settled here before moving closer to where Mittimatalik is now. Besides taking this serene walk down the shore where you would find Inuit dog teams and skeletons of narwhal from previous hunts, you had the option to walk through town on the dirt roads leading to the Visitor Center. The Visitor Center is a combination of the community library and a museum where tea and bannock were served.
After our tour of the museum we then headed to the community hall where an Inuit elder lit a ceremonial qulliq, a traditional lamp in the shape of a half-moon filled with seal or whale blubber used for heating food and water, also providing light. There were performances of Inuit games such as the one-foot high kick, throat singers, dancing, Inuktitut games such as competing in making your opponent laugh by making odd noises, funny faces and hilarious gestures, and of course some drum dancing. The local Inuit really did do a wonderful job portraying their valued traditions, many of which are still very prominent in their culture today.
We boarded National Geographic Explorer and headed to Day Sound, which is west of Mittimatalik. We sailed deeper into Eclipse Sound where we spotted the elusive narwhal and also beluga whales, this was a wonderful surprise and all aboard were very excited at this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, soon everyone was taking photographs of pods of narwhal that were popping out left and right of the ship, after everyone had their visual fill, apart from their camera’s memory cards of course we sailed out of Eclipse Sound and headed back east. Today was an extraordinary day and I cannot wait to see and experience what tomorrow will bring.
