Welcome the sunny south! Our last day underway was spent in the rain-shadowed lands of the Gulf and San Juan Islands. Since Vancouver Island and the Olympic Range are cloud-catchers, this is the driest part of the Northwest Coast. At least in theory. Our day began with scattered showers. Yet as we reached American waters, the sky brightened.
We made our way along the west side of San Juan Island, eventually reaching Lime Kiln Lighthouse. This is perhaps the best-known place to see killer whales in the world! And sure enough, within minutes of passing the light we spotted big dorsal fins. Vancouver’s Frasier River may produce more salmon than any other river in the world. Returning to their natal stream, salmon are concentrated in the San Juan Islands, and killer whales gather there to greet them. There were several pods near the south end of San Juan. After observing the first group of whales, we adjourned to lunch, and then came back out to see another. Seawater at any distance is opaque to light, but is transparent to sound. These whales, though miles apart, were likely in close touch through their vocalizations. They were well aware of each other, of us, and of a whale research boat that got quite close to the whales. These killer whales are the best studied in the world. We know the years of their birth and often their ancestors in the maternal line for several generations. We also know that they are not doing particularly well, and the reason is clear: we are killing too many king salmon by net, dam, or development and the whales are not getting enough to maintain a robust population. This is something serious to consider!
By late afternoon we pulled into Friday Harbor. This, the “capital” of the San Juans, is a pleasant tourist town. Most come by ferry to enjoy the many restaurants and quaint shops. After clearing customs, we wandered about town and enjoyed looking at lavender and books and Indian art.
The San Juan’s are the pastoral Northwest Coast, a gentle way to transition from the wilds of Alaska and the exoticism of the Queen Charlottes to the bustle of the big city that awaits us soon in Seattle.
