Neko and Paradise Harbours, 11/2/2022, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
We woke up in the Gerlache Strait to a wonderful Antarctic morning. We were surrounded by spectacular mountains and icebergs and were treated to views of humpback and minke whales as well as snow petrels before breakfast. Our morning program involved a visit to the gentoo penguin colony at Neko Harbour, and our afternoon program was a Zodiac cruise in Paradise Harbour.
An experienced traveler, Michael has lived on several continents, including a year spent working as a naturalist and zoologist in Galápagos and three months in Kenya conducting a study of birds of prey. He is the author o f Galápagos: A Natural Histo...
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It was our first day in Patagonia. It was a pleasure to be back among some green scenery, although there was some residual sadness of having left behind Antarctica. This morning, we toured the Ventisquero Romanche and Pia Glaciers, which flow into Pia Fjord. A peaceful Zodiac ride brought us close to the front of the glaciers where we could watch calving in action, creating the icy wonderland that we were floating upon. Dressed for the weather, we enjoyed the light drizzle which filled the waterfalls and created misty layers against the dramatic metamorphic rock-scapes. This afternoon, our captain skillfully pirouetted us in front of the actively calving Garibaldi Glacier. It was hard to know which direction to look for the most activity. Then the kayaks and Zodiacs were launched for an exploration of the fjord at water level. Playful sea lions provided the soundtrack as the youngsters gazed at the floating curiosities that had appeared in their playground.
Today was our second day crossing the infamous Drake Passage. We didn’t quite experience the “Drake Shake,” but I think nearly everyone awoke during the wee hours as the ship started to experience a bit more motion. By mid-morning we made our way east of Cape Horn, giving us increasing protection from the wind and swell, all coming from the west. Our day included presentations about everything from the indigenous people of the Beagle Channel to ocean ecosystems and humpback whales, of which we have seen many this past week! A surprise treat was a special afternoon tea served in the ship’s laundry room! Hotel staff provided an array of treats, housekeeping staff decorated the serving area with a range of Antarctic (and other) animals incredibly sculpted out of towels, and laundry staff provided the venue and the smiles. By cocktail hour, National Geographic Explorer was positioned in front of the outpost of Puerto Williams, our two Chilean pilots already on board. It will be hard to surpass the amazing experiences we had in Antarctica, but the excitement of this coming week in Patagonia is palpable.
Today is our first day crossing the Drake Passage after our Antarctic journey. We are fortunate to have relatively calm conditions as we cruise through the open seas once more. While we reflect on the wonders of the ice, marine wildlife, and scenery, we learn more about the place we grew to love through presentations from our naturalist team. There is something special about having a moment to pause and reflect. I find the outer decks, with the wind and sea spray, a refreshing place to soak in the moments. Like the seabirds that follow along our stern, we continue on our journey.