We moved northward along the western Antarctic Peninsula and arrived at Neko Harbor in Andvord Bay in the morning. We were surrounded by dark mountains draped in snow and ice. The inexorable tug of gravity slowly sheds the ice into the bay, which is filled with icebergs and their wreckage of brash ice. We watched the expected gentoo penguins darting through the water and clambering ashore to their rocky colonies perched above. But the highlights of the day turned out to be the ice and the marine mammals we were able to observe during our Zodiac tours and from the outer decks of National Geographic Resolution.