We woke to the sound of growlers bumping into the hull of National Geographic Explorer as we sailed into Andvord Bay en route to Neko Harbour. Neko Harbour is comprised of the only section of ice-free rocks in a bay surrounded by tidewater glaciers and the place a colony of gentoo penguins chose to make their summer home.

Our guests had the opportunity to enjoy the spectacular views over the glacier from the lower ground or to hike up to a viewpoint overlooking it. The hike wasn’t easy, but everybody agreed it was worth it. Halfway through the morning, katabatic winds came for a visit, and for a little while we got to experience how powerful nature can be this far south.

We repositioned to Cuverville Island for our afternoon landing and, fortunately, the wind didn’t follow us. The island offered us more gentoo penguins, luxurious vegetation (for Antarctica), and a bay filled with grounded icebergs. A lot of the penguin chicks are getting close to fledging time, and we were amazed by numerous scenes where the chicks were running after their parents to beg for food.