North Scotia Ridge, Scotia Sea, 1/23/2022, National Geographic Endurance
Aboard the
National Geographic Endurance
Antarctica
National Geographic Endurance moved west today into the relatively milder waters of Falkland Plateau—moving out of the Southern Ocean and into the South Atlantic. Foggy conditions frustrated our sea-watching efforts, but we still saw some humpback whales and hourglass dolphins despite poor visibility. By evening, the fog lifted enough for us to enjoy views of wandering albatross and their smaller cousins, including various petrels.
For as long as he can remember, Conor has always been preoccupied with the natural world, from the whales to the fungi. For most of his life he has been an islander: growing up in Cobh, Ireland and settling down in Tobermory in the Hebrides, Scotland...
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The huge distances we have covered on this journey meant that our last full day was spent almost completely at sea on our return leg from Antarctica. After a merciful lie-in, we crowded the decks as we sailed past Cape Horn, the majestic headland at the bottom tip of Hornos Island, the southernmost point of Tierra del Fuego and the entire South American continent. Despite its fearsome reputation, pleasant seas allowed for an enjoyable brunch before we plunged into our presentation schedule for the morning and afternoon. Naturalist Gail Ashton related her experience of living on the Antarctica continent for 18 months, Jonny Reid discussed marine mammal acoustics and the underwater soundscapes of this region, and Jess Farrer explained how the study of whale and seal poop can tell us so much about these animals. As we entered the Beagle Channel, the stunning mountains of Tierra del Fuego lined our passage to Ushuaia. Gathering in the Ice Lounge for the captain’s farewell party, we toasted a hugely enjoyable trip and the new friends we have made.
“To be whole is to be part; true voyage is return.” – Ursula K. Le Guin The return voyage from the Antarctic is as essential as every other part. As we sail north towards Tierra del Fuego, we keep the company of seabirds and whales. The gentle roars and endless horizon of the ocean a perfect backdrop to reflect upon our time on the seventh continent. A trip like no other and unforgettable memories in tow, the sun sets on our last day within the borders of the Antarctic.
There was some deliberation on National Geographic Resolution this morning as we awoke to quite a wintery feel with brash ice and icebergs covering the surface of Paradise Bay. Those who signed up to kayak enjoyed a true Antarctic experience. Kayaking among bergy bits is sure to be a highlight of the trip for many. But the real indecision was whether to plunge into these frigid waters to gain the euphoria and bragging rights that come with the Polar Plunge. Warmed up after lunch on board, we took a short Zodiac trip to enjoy our final hike to the top of Danco Island. Our path was adjacent to the gentoo penguin highway. Penguins trekked to and from several of the colonies on this island. We continued to the summit of Danco Island and were rewarded with 360° panoramic views of glaciers tumbling into the bay.
