Thick cloud and mist concealed Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest mountain, immediately to the ship as we slipped our moorings at Banavie to begin the decent of Neptune’s Staircase. This flight of eight locks lowers vessels 64 feet for the final section of the Caledonian Canal that leads to the sea-lock at Corpach. Between Banavie and Corpach we also negotiate a road and railway bridge, so the first few hours of sailing were eventful. At Corpach, the Canadian flag flies alongside the Scottish saltire, a celebration of the links between the Caledonian Canal and the Rideau Canal in Ottawa.
Entering salt water for the first time on this voyage on Scotland’s Atlantic coast we sailed south-west along lochs Aber and Linnhe towards Oban. On the banks of Loch Aber close to Corpach we passed Fort William, a name redolent of the Jacobite disturbances and a town still known in Gaelic simply as the Garrison, An Gearasadan. The town is known to all British schoolchildren from their geography lessons: it boasts the highest rainfall of any British town, and today was living up to its reputation. A presentation on Celtic Christianity prepared us for our forthcoming visit to Iona before the busy port of Oban came into view just ahead of lunch.
Immediately after lunch we visited the Oban Distillery that was founded in 1794 and remains situated in the heart of the town. A thorough tour of the distillery which was in production was followed by a generous tasting session. There followed an optional walk to McCaig’s Folly, an immodest monument built by an investment banker of that name to commemorate his financially successful career. An evening alongside provided ample opportunities for personal exploration ashore.
