Jim hails from the seaside town of Cobh in the south of Ireland. He is a highly respected ornithologist and ecologist with more than 40 years of birding experience in Ireland, Europe, North and South America, Africa, the Antarctic, and the Arctic. Be...
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Early risers witnessed our entrance into the quaint town of Mariehamn, the capital of Åland, a collection of Swedish-speaking Finnish islands in the Baltic Sea. The rest of us emerged for the day’s excursions into a chill but sunny morning – the perfect excuse to pull out the sweaters we’d packed but have barely had a reason to wear until now. The first of three groups departed on a history tour of the islands, beginning at the ruins of Bomarsund Fortress, a Russian fortification constructed in the 1830s but destroyed by Anglo-French troops in the Crimean War. After a thorough exploration of the fort’s remains and a walk through the exceptional visitors’ center, guests on this excursion enjoyed lunch and a ‘Swedish pancake’ (a delicious baked rice pudding with cardamom and plum sauce). In the afternoon, they visited the nearby Kastelholm Castle, one of only five surviving Finnish medieval castles, and the Jan Karlsgården Open Air Museum. The second group embarked on a maritime adventure, beginning with a visit to the Emelia , a galeas (small trade vessel) currently being built using traditional techniques. Their next stop was the Pellas Museum, the homestead of Captain Sven Erikson, the last captain of the four-masted steel ship Herzogin Cecile , which sank in 1939. Salvaged pieces of her wreck are on display at the Åland Maritime Museum, the final stop on the tour, which also included a walk through the Pommern , a stunning black four-masted barque built to carry cargo between England and Australia in the early 1900s. The third group focused on the local producers around Åland, beginning with a stop at SALT, a living craft house with studio space for artisans to create and sell their woven rugs, printed tea towels, candles, and candies. We also explored the Emelia before being treated to a gourmet apple juice tasting at Öfvergårds, an internationally award-winning apple orchard. The delicious food did not end there. We drove to Stallhagen Brewery for a tour of their operations and an amazing lunch of locally caught fish and potatoes. After reuniting on the ship, we all enjoyed an afternoon concert by the Gölby Fiddlers, a group of talented young female fiddlers from the islands. This was followed by a recap, dinner on board, and an evening to explore the parts of the town we had yet to see.
A better, lovelier first expedition day would be impossible! The easternmost point of Denmark is an archipelago called Ertholmene. We landed in the early morning on this gorgeous, sunny day, and we had the islands almost to ourselves. Between photography, nature, and exploratory walks, we found many ways to get to know these picturesque little islands. Christiansø and Frederiksø are connected by a small bridge. Around 100 people live here today, but the population was around 800 at its peak. The islands were used as strategic military and trading outposts since the early Middle Ages. Territorial disputes between the Danes, Germans, and Swedes mark the islands’ history. We observed a fortress from 1684 and the remaining towers and cannons. The scenery and natural environment of the islands are absolutely fantastic, and Ertholmene has been an inspiration for poets and writers. We spotted the neighboring islet of Græsholm, a protected nature reserve. We observed grey seals loudly vocalizing while swimming and resting on the rocks. We also saw black-headed gulls, black-backed gulls, razorbills, common murres, and mute swans. The iconic eider ducks chose these islands for the protection offered to their nests. We spotted many females with chicks along the shores. In the afternoon, we anchored at Bornholm and took our Zodiacs ashore to Gudjhem. Some of us visited the impressive medieval fortress of Hammershus, the famous round churches of Bornholm, and the castle ruins. Others took a ride along the countryside’s colorful landscape to visit Bornholm’s Food Culture House, an open-air museum where we learned about Bornholm’s culinary culture. We enjoyed a very memorable visit to a family-owned business that produces organic sea buckthorn, also known as Nordic lemon. We tasted many delicious, locally-produced products and heard inspiring stories of entrepreneurship and cooperation. It was a tasty and unforgettable experience. There was so much to see in a beautiful place with such lovely and welcoming local people.
This was the first time National Geographic Explorer has visited Ahus, a small city of 11,000 people in southern Sweden. It certainly won’t be the last. This charming community is the world headquarters of Absolut, the iconic vodka brand. After a lovely Zodiac ride through the morning mist, we divided into two groups, one that toured the factory (and got a lesson in how to make a Cosmopolitan cocktail) and the other that strolled to a nearby beach where they learned about the town’s historic eel fishing tradition. After a delicious lunch together at the Absolute Home, an ornate building that was once the office of Absolut’s founder in the late 1800s, the groups switched places. It was a lovely visit to a picturesque community that we will “absolutely” add to our regular list of destinations. This was the last day of our expedition across the Baltic Sea, and we ended the day with the Captain’s Farewell in the lounge. I was moved to recite this fitting poem by Swedish songwriter and bon vivant, Evert Taube. I think it speaks to all travelers – those who literally take to sea and those whose journey is the voyage of life: While still the boat sails along While still the heartbeat is strong While still the sun’s rays on waves are a glittering throng Though you should suffer, perform each endeavor There will be rest soon for ever and ever! But that’s no reason at all To not be glad and stand tall It’s time to strike up a quite irresistible waltz! It’s such a great stroke of luck you’re alive now, my friend And can waltz through the day around Havana! And when your last money’s gone, go to sea once again With the trade wind your sailor’s bandanna Do your duty aright Go on land that’s in sight Take a kiss maybe two in the dance’s swift flight! While still the boat sails along While still the heartbeat is strong While still the sun’s rays on waves are a glittering throng
