If there is a place I love most at the Pacaya Samiria Reserve in the Upper Amazon of Peru, it is the Pacaya River. This river is so pristine, far away, and full of bewildering biodiversity and spectacular landscapes. Today, the Pacaya River was spectacular once again!
We started our exploration with the first rays of light at sunrise. We went as far as we could using the three-skiff fleet of Delfin II. We had extraordinary sightings! We saw pink river dolphins, macaws, monkeys, cormorants, parrots, egrets, and more. At one point, we stopped exploring and looked for shade to rest and have our breakfast — today we had our early meal served outdoors, right on board the skiffs! The green surroundings and dolphins were our companions. Later we also enjoyed the opportunity to swim in Yanayacu Lake.
In the late afternoon, we explored the Magdalena River. We had overcast skies, which was a relief from the strong sun of the late morning. It was a long and adventurous day that filled our hearts and minds with new sightings and impressions.
Carlos was born in Quito, Ecuador, and grew up in Venezuela, where he lived his childhood and teenage years near the ocean and the tropical rainforest. He returned to Quito to study Biology and specialized in the fauna of Ecuador. His main field of s...
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The Pacaya River, a tributary of the Ucayali River, weaves its way through the heart of the Peruvian Amazon, carving a serpentine path through the lush and biodiverse rainforest. This majestic river, stretching over 1,135 kilometers (705 miles), is one of the Amazon's vital arteries, serving as a lifeline for both the ecosystem and the people who call this remote region home. The Pacaya River's journey begins high in the Andes Mountains, where pristine glacial waters converge to form its headwaters. As it descends through the dense cloud forests, it gathers momentum, eventually spilling into the lowland Amazon basin. Today we visited the “birthplace” of the Amazon River, as our guide explained. Our Captain navigated proudly and we all enjoyed pisco sours in front of the bridge. Local Indigenous communities have lived alongside the Pacaya for generations, relying on its resources for sustenance and cultural identity. They practice sustainable fishing and gather medicinal plants from the riverbanks, maintaining a delicate balance with nature. The river also serves as a vital transportation route for these communities, connecting remote villages with larger towns and cities. In the mid-morning we landed in the Amazonas community, where we learned about their ways of life. We also learned about the local projects supported by Minga Perú, the NGO that connects us to this community. Efforts to protect the Pacaya River and the broader Amazon basin are ongoing. Conservation organizations, researchers, and governments are working together to promote sustainable practices, protect critical habitats, and raise awareness about the importance of preserving this vital ecosystem. In the afternoon we went for a hike and encountered some of the most mystical animals of the Amazon: sloths! These enchanting creatures make their homes in the lush canopies of the Peruvian Amazon rainforest. These slow-moving arboreal mammals are known for their deliberate movements, and they have adapted perfectly to the rainforest's unique challenges. Sloths have specialized claws that allow them to hang upside down from tree branches, a behavior that both conserves energy and helps them evade predators. They have a primarily herbivorous diet, feasting on leaves and shoots which can be difficult to digest. Remarkably, sloths have a specialized stomach with multiple chambers and a slow metabolism to efficiently extract nutrients from their fibrous diet. While their sluggish pace may seem disadvantageous, it actually plays a crucial role in their survival, as it reduces their visibility to predators. Observing these charming creatures in the Peruvian Amazon is a testament to the region's incredible biodiversity and the importance of preserving their unique habitat. During the walk, we spotted tarantulas with the help of our local guides; they did an amazing job finding animals that would be completely invisible to our untrained eyes! Insects, frogs, plants and their adaptations to this environment — our guides showed us so much, and taught us to appreciate the perfect balance of these ecosystems.
We started our day with a skiff ride along the Pacaya River to explore for wildlife along the riverbank. This time of year the water is low, and plenty of fish are trapped in the shallow water lagoons. We observed neotropic cormorants feeding on armored catfish and freshwater sardines; great egrets and jabiru storks were also spotted flying over the area and resting on the canopy. We were lucky to spot a family of three giant river otters walking down the river — they even stayed for a few minutes, allowing us to photograph them and enjoy their presence from a short distance. Giant river otter populations are recovering slowly, as their numbers have been displaced by human settlements in remote areas of the Peruvian Upper Amazon. This region is home to three different species of caimans, and we were lucky to spot a few of them sunbathing along the riverbank. We had breakfast on the skiffs, and we encountered a group of hoatzins (also known as stinky turkeys) nearby. After breakfast, we went swimming in the Yanayacu lagoon. We jumped into the water from the skiffs, and soon pink river dolphins came to swim nearby. What a great experience! After lunch aboard the Delfin II , we explored further into the Pacaya River. We encountered several more caimans, and as the night arrived we spotted several groups of capybaras feeding on the grass along the riverbank. Night birds and long-nosed bats were soaring in the sky. This was an incredible day along the Pacaya river.
Today was our first full day in the Peruvian Amazon and we awoke early to enjoy the Ucayali River at its finest. This is a vital waterway that flows through the heart of the Amazon rainforest. Stretching over 1,000 miles, it is one of the main tributaries of the Amazon River and holds immense ecological and cultural significance. The Ucayali River is known for its rich biodiversity, with countless species of flora and fauna inhabiting its banks and waters. It provides a habitat for various wildlife, including jaguars, macaws, river dolphins, and countless fish species. The surrounding rainforest is a treasure trove of unique and often undiscovered species. One of our first encounters of the day was with a pair of crimson-crested woodpeckers. This striking avian inhabitant of the Peruvian Amazon is known for its vibrant plumage and distinctive drumming calls. Sporting a brilliant red crown and contrasting black and white body, this woodpecker is a visual marvel amidst the lush green canopy. Its powerful bill is not only a tool for excavating insects from tree bark, but also creates a rhythmic percussion — a unique part of its courtship and territorial displays. These woodpeckers are vital contributors to the Amazon's ecosystem, playing a crucial role in controlling insect populations. The presence of the crimson-crested woodpecker is not only a testament to the Amazon's astonishing biodiversity but also a reminder of the importance of conserving this magnificent habitat for future generations to witness. In the afternoon we went out again with our skiffs and saw a few species of kingfishers. The Amazon kingfisher is a skilled hunter, often seen perched patiently along the riverbanks. It waits for the perfect moment to dive into the water to catch fish, insects, and other aquatic prey. Its distinctive call, resembling a high-pitched, rattling laugh, is a characteristic sound of the Amazonian waterways. By sunset we landed on a sandbank that hosted a number of shorebirds. We observed many sand-colored nighthawks, known for their cryptic plumage that blends seamlessly with the sandy riverbanks and forest floors of its habitat. During the breeding season, these skilled avian predators nest in shallow depressions on the ground, carefully camouflaged to protect their precious eggs and hatchlings. Sand-colored nighthawks are doting parents, taking turns incubating the eggs and diligently tending to their chicks. The sight of a mother sheltering her downy, camouflaged young amidst the lush Amazonian foliage is a testament to the remarkable adaptations and intricate life that thrives in this biodiverse region.