Berit Solstad (naturalist) and Karen Solstad (guest)
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Daily Expedition
Reports
31 Jan 2023
Paulet Island, Tay Head , 1/31/2023, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
Paulet Island was formed by a volcano that erupted beneath an enormous sheet of ice. Now it is the site of the vast Adelie penguin colony that we visited this morning. Our lunch was delayed as we watched a large pod of killer whales near the ship. Our afternoon walks at Tay Head on Joinville Island featured a smaller Adelie penguin colony, Antarctic fur seals, and a glacier. After dinner, the ship cruised very close to huge tabular icebergs – the views were magical.
Berit grew up on the rocky shores of Marblehead, Massachusetts, where she explored the marine environment through changing tides and seasons, nurturing a love of natural history and marine biology.
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We completed a mild Drake Passage crossing today at the end of our incredible expedition to Antarctica, enjoying sightings of albatrosses, hourglass dolphins, sei whales, sea lions, penguins and seabirds on approach to South America. We enjoyed onboard presentations on a changing Antarctic Peninsula, historical perspectives on Antarctica, on assignment with our National Geographic photographer, and the results of an ice sculpture photography contest. Guests enjoyed the milder air temperatures and sightings from the decks as we approached civilization again after a week of incredible experiences among polar wildlife and icy scenery along the Antarctic Peninsula. “My heart is full,” was a memorable quote from one of our travelers after one such experience. We celebrated our voyage with the viewing of the guest slideshow, Captain Martin’s cocktail party, and a farewell dinner, as we boarded a local navigation pilot to lead National Geographic Resolution down the famous Beagle Channel into Ushuaia, Argentina, to end our remarkable expedition among penguins, whales and ice.
What an amazing last day in Antarctica! It started early, as guests were on the bridge enjoying the view as we pulled into our destination for the morning. The scenery was the highlight of our day, exploring in Zodiacs and on shore.
National Geographic Endurance arrived at the Bertholet Islands before breakfast. The seas oscillated in a light swell under overcast skies as we enjoyed our breakfast. After breakfast we prepared for exciting Zodiac trips through the numerous small islands. Although cold rain increased through the morning, we enjoyed tremendous views of gentoo penguins, a leopard seal, Antarctic terns, and skuas. The diverse and fascinating wildlife were framed by tall icy peaks of the Antarctic Peninsula and numerous intricate icebergs that formed a natural sculpture garden as we threaded our way through the ice. The islands comprise asymmetric rounded roches moutonnées indicating the flow of ice that carved the waterways during the Last Glacial Maximum. During the afternoon, National Geographic Endurance relocated to Petermann Island for excellent hiking of glacially rounded granodiorite, which represents part of the roots of the Mesozoic magmatic arc which formed above an ancient subduction zone and now forms the backbone of the Antarctic Peninsula. The evening was capped off by a wonderful dinner and a post dessert transit through the scenic Lemaire Channel.
