The National Geographic Sea Lion continued her northwest journey through Peril Strait throughout the morning. This narrow passage separates Baranof Island and Chichagof Island and our passage is very tidal dependent. The officers on the bridge waited through most of the previous evening for high slack water, which arrived at approximately 6:00am. The bow had a nice group of early risers watching as the Sea Lion made her way through a marine layer of low clouds and moisture, a common occurrence during the long high of open weather we were experiencing. Later in the morning we reached Chatham Strait and began a passage heading north towards our afternoon anchorage of Pavlof Harbor, located along the northeast peninsula of Chichagof Island.
The recent new moon brought a large amount of water and tidal currents over the bottom topography of this deep channel, concentrating nutrients and prey animals and providing a rich feeding area for fish, seabirds, and whales. The bridge and Natural History staff were on watch around the vessel and in the late morning Humpback whales were seen moving through Chatham Strait. During the next couple of hours we moved slowly, accompanying three Humpback whales as they casually made their way in the same direction. In spectacular light, we moved with some of Alaska’s most important summer residents.
The day passed quickly and soon our midday meal was before us and the afternoon’s activities were presented by our expedition leader at the end of lunch. The Sea Lion was anchored in Pavlof Harbor, a small sheltered anchorage at the entrance to Freshwater Bay, a much larger inlet that cuts deep into Chichagof Island. This area was very important to local Tlingit Natives as a summer camp site. Our anchorage was located near a very busy and productive salmon stream. The forest was full of greens and berries and all were harvested along with the salmon and shellfish by the Tlingit people who have used this site for thousands of years. This rich harvest was then stored for the winter. In the dark hours of the coldest season of the year, when Native peoples gathered in Big Houses, stories were told regarding the origins of each clan and their personal experience with natural and super natural beings. It was on the beaches of these old summer camp sites that we landed and began our afternoon activities. Hiking and kayaking were offered along with a Zodiac cruise.
Storm clouds were gathering over the mountains as we enjoyed hikes and kayaks. Although it was a warm and sunny day we could all see a change of weather was coming. In the distance lightning and thunder crashed through the sky as everyone slowly made their way back to our landing site. All too soon it was time to return to the Sea Lion for evening activities, cocktails, our first recap and salmon for dinner!
As dinner was being served, the bridge made a call to the expedition staff in the lounge, Whales, whales, whales! Our first day and we encountered marine mammals! First we had a walk in the temperate rain forest and then whales at the last light of day. The winds died, the water lit in pink from the sunset and blows of Humpbacks filled the air. So many gifts-from first light, to whale blows, to lying on the floor of the forest looking up, to storm clouds from a Zodiac, to the soft light at days end. A visual feast that the Northwest Coast and Alaska gave freely.
