The departure from Puerto Natales was on a sunny and warm morning, contrasting with gray metallic clouds in the distance. Only 30 minutes away from shore a bright rainbow emerged to the delight of all photographers who were on deck. We couldn’t be happier with the fantastic weather conditions we have encountered so far. Yesterday’s excursion to the beautiful Torres del Paine National Park is still a major talking point.

Today we will find our way through the impressive White Narrows Passage. To our surprise we had not only one, but two condors, leading the way through the White Narrows, as if they were sent to open the gates for us. Most of us are wondering how it is possible that this expedition has been so blessed by nature, always revealing more and more beauties before our eyes. We continued our navigation and along the way saw Union Channel, Smyth Channel, and into the Straits of Magellan.

To everybody’s surprise we had the opportunity to enjoy teatime in a different place; the laundry room opened its doors for all of us. It is a special occasion to meet the laundry staff and also to become more familiar about the recycling program on the ship and the practical considerations for the life in the sea. We were all delighted with the varied cookies prepared specially for this occasion.

During our days at sea guests have become curious and wondering about the wine tasting, every day asking different questions regarding the topic of wine. Finally the day for the big wine tasting has arrived. We talked about the history of wine; the Spanish grape varieties, how the French vines arrived, and how both independence and the multicultural background of Chilean impacted society. A brief summary of the guest’s questions over the journey were revised and discussed, talking about the myths and common beliefs around the subject. A big part of the topic was to talk about current challenges of agriculture, land prices, the importance of sustainability, bees, multipurpose farming, sustainability, organic and biodynamic farming.

As a Chilean, it is overwhelming navigating in Tierra del Fuego, because one never forgets the first man and woman to live in these latitudes. The conditions in which they lived and the rich world of beliefs is stunning, we may know about them as much as mankind knows about the oceans. Their connection to the stars, nature and its forces was remarkable. The prints left by them on stones, Darwin’s drawing,s and the collection of photographs by the priests Martin Gusinde and Alberto Agostini are the only evidence we have. These elements shared with us through the lectures are just the tip of an iceberg we will never be able to fully comprehend. The voices of these people have been silenced forever; their chants were carried by the wind to the stars. We navigate their magic waters, writing with light what we find in their lands. It seems to me that the fire of Tierra del Fuego is to be found today in the fire of all who dare to explore these channels.