The National Geographic Sea Bird cruised all night across a stretch of eighty-one miles of open ocean called Hecate Strait. This shallow body of water separates the mainland of British Columbia from Haida Gwaii, an archipelago of more than 400 islands. The crossing was one of the calmest many officers, staff and crew had ever experienced, making for a lovely restful night for everyone on board. In the early dawn light our Captain began maneuvers taking the National Geographic Sea Bird in closer to Graham Island and our morning destination Queen Charlotte City. As our ship approached we could see the entire dock and all its pilings exposed...a new moon in one day causing over 20 feet of tidal fluctuation.
During breakfast announcements we were introduced to Barbara Wilson who would be our cultural interpreter during our visit to Haida Gwaii. As we listened Zodiacs were lowered and because of the tides we were all ferried around and into the main harbor where we could make our way UP a long dock and to our waiting busses. Our day began at the Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay. Here we were separated into two groups. One group went outside into the gorgeous morning light to see, photograph and hear the stories of the poles that were raised one day at a time in 2001, honoring the Haida Nation and the building of the remarkable Centre we visited. Raven LeBlanc a fine story teller, Haida speaker and very proud member of her Nation guided us from pole to pole. She stopped to tell many stories with great theatrical gestures! She explained about the supernatural creature, Mouse Woman who might at times be depicted with a very long tongue because she did love to gossip, or Dog Fish Woman, considered to be one of the most beautiful creatures on earth, or Grizzly Bear who can take off his animal skin to appear human to humans who might need a lesson in respecting the Bear people. From pole to pole we learned about the figures, the setting of all the poles and the importance of this Heritage Centre to the Haida people, beautifully summed up by carver Guujaaw from the clan Gaagyals KiiGawaay of Skedans:
“The culture is not the totem poles, songs, dance or even blood; Haida culture is the relationship of our people to these islands. The carving and what we consider art are ways of expressing that relationship.”
After the outside of this magnificent centre had been seen, we entered it’s inner world and through the eyes of Alex Goetzinger, our second Haida guide we were escorted through many rooms of the museum viewing art, natural history and once again some of the finest First Nations carvings in Canada. More stories opened our eyes and with some care the words of Guujaaw took hold and we found a gift of a new perspective, a different way to see a place, from the eyes of the Haida people who had lived and continue to live on the islands of this large archipelago.
All too soon it was time to return to the National Geographic Sea Bird and lunch. Our good weather continued and after a lovely meal we returned to our busses and made a short journey to the trail head for Spirit Lake. For several hours we wandered in the shade and shadows of a lovely island forest. Birds and frogs sang to us, plants were emerging in the late spring warmth, old trees culturally modified told unending stories, while young trees fought for light. Emerging from the forest into the sunlight we returned to our floating home. The Captain and officers were preparing for an afternoon departure heading south to Anthony Island and SGang Gwaay.
As the National Geographic Sea Bird pulled slowly away from the Albion Fisheries Dock Barbara Wilson began her first talk, “spirit in the place.” Through her eyes we found yet another Haida interpretation of this place called Haida Gwaii. As Barbara spoke many of us reflected on her opening words: “we have been here since it was both light and dark.”
