Rites of Passage and Reefs
As the dawn broke, we gazed in wonder at the towering ancient cliffs of pink and orange sandstone, anticipating the feelings of the sacred enclosure of an initiation. For us, it was a narrow steep track up the cliff to visit a ceremonial site and meet our first Wandjinas, the sacred spirits of Worora indigenous tribes. For young aboriginal men, it was the beginning of an exponential series of challenges into the responsibility of manhood.
We are at Raft Point in the Kimberleys, a place of rites, ceremonies, amazing reefs, and contemporary aboriginal art. Characterized by impressive geological formations, where high cliffs drop into the sea of Collier Bay, this is the site where young aboriginal males demonstrated their crafting skills at building an artisanal mangrove tree raft and their dexterity at paddling it across the sea to the biggest inshore reef of Australia, Montgomery Reef. With the knowledge of tides and currents, they were able to navigate these waters and, if successful, survive the challenge, bringing back the prized catches like fish and turtles.
The challenge ahead of us, nevertheless daunting, still stirred the feeling of anticipation and the determination to get to the natural art gallery was imprinted in everyone’s spirit. During our ascent, we were greeted by the iconic symbol of the Kimberley, the boab trees (adansonia gregorii), a very slow growing tree related to the Madagascan and African adansonia species known as baobabs. Though not exceptionally high, up to 15 metres, they can reach a massive girth of up to 20 metres. Standing tall as sentinels along the path, some of the specimens are considered to be almost 1000 years old.
At the rocky gallery, our expedition leader Darrin Bennett explained some interesting facts about these mysterious paintings. Wandjina art is characterized by figures displaying large haloed heads with no mouths. They are painted on sandstone surfaces, usually facing west, or on the ceilings of walls of caves and shelters, with ochres in various colors of reds, browns, yellows, whites, and blacks. The Wandjina is intrinsically linked to the mythological life, social organization, and seasonal movements of Indigenous Kimberley people.
After a well-deserved rest, it was time to visit the spectacular Montgomery Reef in our modern rafts, the Zodiacs. We explored the cascading flowing channels, sighting many green turtles and eastern reef egrets. The importance of this unique ecosystem was evident, as it represents the largest inshore reef system in Australia. The vast area (400km2) of shallow, sheltered, sunlit lagoons and pools of the reef platform supports a great diversity, and is home to a vast plethora of marine life including dugong, reef sharks, rays, birds, and an extremely large population of turtles who feed on the seagrass beds.
On our way back we were surprised by drinks on a low tide exposed sandbar, adding that extra refreshing taste to our adventures.
This is the Kimberleys, a place of vast grandeur that will touch your spirit, and each day is a rite of passage that will take you into a new adventure.
