The fog kept our initial view of South Georgia hidden from us as we approached our destination in the early hours of the morning. But as we got closer, the island started to take shape. There was a buzz in the air and excitement filled the ship as we sat down for breakfast, eager to get the adventure started. As our brave drivers navigated through the surf, around a curious leopard seal, and onto the beach, words couldn’t describe the scene that lay before us. Salisbury Plain is home to one of the largest king penguin colonies on South Georgia, with over 100,000 nesting pairs and their chicks. A flood of black, white, and gold stretched as far as the eye could see. But the penguins aren’t the only residents of this particular beach. Male fur seals were scattered throughout, claiming their own territories for when their time comes to find a mate. And big bull elephant seals made their presence known with an occasional grunt or by slinking across the sand. Southern giant petrels and Antarctic skuas patrolled the skies, seeking the perfect opportunity for an easy meal. There is so much life here, it’s almost overwhelming. All of our senses were acting on overdrive, trying to soak it all in. But the adventure for the day wasn’t over.
Once back on board and warmed up with food in our bellies, we ventured back out into the elements to Prion Island, home to a breeding colony of wandering albatross. A welcoming party of fur seals greeted us at the landing and encouraged us to make our way up the path to view the chicks of this majestic seabird that boasts the largest wingspan of any living bird. But as the guests of the National Geographic Explorer were enjoying the sights on land, our undersea specialist, Paul and I opted to explore the waters below. The abundance of life that exists in these frigidly cold waters never ceases to amaze me. We explored the kelp forest and found a seafloor covered in limpets. A slurry of copepods surrounded the lights of the camera. Nudibranchs clung to the kelp as it swayed back and forth in the surge. And a variety of sea stars could be found randomly scattered throughout the sea floor, searching for their next meal. It didn’t take long to realize that humans just aren’t designed to exist in this environment of water that would be frozen if it were fresh. So Paul and I returned to the comforts of the ship and were immediately given a deliciously warm beverage of rosehip by our always smiling hotel manager, Patrik.
It’s hard to believe all of this can happen in only one day. The adventure has definitely begun and we are all eager to see and experience what awaits here in this indescribable place.
