As the northerly winds subsided throughout the evening, National Geographic Sea Bird cut a wake towards the small natural harbor of Puerto Escondido. Under pink morning skies we looked upon the formidable Sierra de la Giganta range. Embarking a fleet of vans, we twisted and turned through the range, following a drainage that clearly can become a raging torrent in the hurricane season. Today though, the mountains were green and water slow as we worked our way to San Javier, an oasis set amidst the red and green walls. This tiny village is home to the first Jesuit mission in all of Baja California, which still stands to this day. Walking through the garden with William, we learned about the incredible number of plants that the Jesuits brought with them into the mountains. The crown jewels of the ground’s plant life are the original olive trees, gnarled and sagging under 400 years of growth. These trees had character to spare. Walking back we watched the endemic Xantus’ hummingbirds feed and tried our hand at macro photography with fluttering queen butterflies.
Our sinuous path was retraced down the watershed, towards the town of Loreto. This alcove with stunning views of the offshore islands and accompanying Loreto Bay National Marine Sanctuary served as our backdrop for a great lunch at La Mission Hotel, a stones throw from the malecon, or waterfront walkway. Satiated, we wandered the laurel-lined streets towards the city’s main square and eventually towards the Mission “Head and mother of all missions in Upper and Lower California.” It was here that Father Junipero Serra began his epic journey to the north, forever reshaping the West Coast of North America.
