Santa Cruz del Islote, 10/28/2022, National Geographic Quest
Aboard the
National Geographic Quest
Costa Rica, Panama & Colombia
The last full day of our first expedition through Colombia brought us to one of its highlights: Santa Cruz del Islote, a tiny artificial island which became famous as one of the most densely populated on earth. Fishermen started reclaiming land in the 1870s, throwing pieces of coral and rocks over areas exposed during low tides. Today Santa Cruz del Islote measures 200 meters in length, 120 meters in width, and is home to 1247 people – and still growing! We had a chance to walk through the narrow alleys, meet the locals and photograph incredible art works that cover most of the place.
Rodrigo Moterani was born in Brazil, where he still lives. After spending his teen years playing with camcorders and VCRs, Rodrigo ended up working in the field of television journalism and video production in his home country. He graduated with a de...
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The last full day of our expedition began with an early wake-up call performed by several troops of howler monkeys. From the bow of National Geographic Quest, several guests gathered to enjoy the majestic howl of these primates. They were announcing, up in the canopy of the trees of Barro Colorado Island, where they had decided to forage. Right after breakfast, we geared up and separated into three different groups. One group of our guests went to explore some of the trails of this island run by scientists of the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute. Another group jumped in one of our Zodiacs and left to explore the surroundings of the island. The last group loaded onto outboard engine boats and cruised to the midpoint of the Panama Canal; from here they rode coach buses to a pristine area in the Soberania National Park. It was a very active morning, loaded with mesmerizing sightings of birds, primates, and reptiles. Afterward, we returned to the ship for lunch. Right after recharging our energy, we went out again and loaded onto local boats to explore other coves and small islets of Gatun Lake. Once back on board, we all gathered to share our thoughts of how amazing our journey has been, exploring the Caribbean coasts of Colombia and Panama.
As the sun rose, we entered the famous bay of Portobelo, surrounded by lush, green-forested hills with Spanish forts nestled into the horseshoe bay. Known in the 17th century as the stronghold of the Spanish Main’s most prized location, Portobelo received and transported the bulk of Peruvian treasures between the Americas. Today it stands as a testament of time, still displaying its mighty forts that engaged in multiple pirate attacks, still standing among the ancestral Afro-Colonial residents that made this town their home. We took advantage of a cool morning breeze to walk through the historic town, visiting the forts and the famous Church of the Black Christ. Thousands of devotees have been making this pilgrimage every October 21 for over 200 years. Our morning ended with the famous Congo Dances that depict the Afro-Colonial period of slavery, which today erupts in energetic song and dance unique to Portobelo.
After an incredible four days exploring the Colombian coast, today we entered Panama and arrived at the iconic Indigenous territory of Guna Yala. This Indigenous group is perhaps the strongest organized native group in the Americas, having a semi-autonomous nation within the nation. They are well-recognized for the iconic Mola, an extremely colorful reverse-applique tapestry that emerges from their beliefs and folklore. We arrived on the outer banks which offer a great location for pristine coral reefs. This was just the right stop after four wonderfully busy days in Colombia — the chance to swim and relax and enjoy this remote island all for ourselves. In the afternoon we enjoyed a mesmerizing flute dance, which gave us incredible photographs and videos of these magnificent wind instruments originally created in the Andes.
