Sea Cloud entered the vast caldera of Santorini this morning just before sunrise as the first rosy hues of dawn touched the few delicate clouds scattered across the horizon. After a short trip to the island via tender, we traveled by bus to the town of Oia, passing fertile vineyards, fields of tomatoes, and wild patches of cactus and fig. The rich, colorful soil of this volcanic island is terraced to facilitate agriculture, and from the upper road along the ridge of the caldera these terraces resemble a massive, irregular staircase in the distance. Grateful to arrive on a day without any large cruise ships, we nearly had the town of Oia to ourselves; photographers enjoyed postcard-like views of blue domes and stark white Cycladic architecture, while others took advantage of the variety of opportunities for shopping on this popular island.
Just as Oia began to get a bit more crowded, we departed for an unforgettable lunch at the Kallisti Restaurant in the village of Pirgos. The owner and vintner, Nektario, is quite a character, serving plate after plate of mezedes, such as stuffed tomatoes, savory meatballs, and a delectable fava bean puree, amongst other offerings. Well fed, we continued on to the pre-history museum at Fira and the archaeological site of Akrotiri. This fascinating site, a wealthy city of 17th-century B.C. merchants under the influence of the Minoans of Crete, was preserved when the island’s volcano erupted burying the site under meters of volcanic ash. Known as the Pompeii of the Aegean, the city’s art and culture has been the focus of archaeological study for many decades.
Returning to the ship in the late afternoon, we experienced a rare treat: the opportunity to swim in the caldera of Thera. With Sea Cloud anchored near Palia Kameni, we had a short swim in the deep blue waters off the port side of the ship, in disbelief that we were technically within the caldera of a still-active volcano. We concluded this memorable day with another perfect meal on the lido deck followed by a viewing of the classic square-rig sailing film, Around Cape Horn.
