Greek mythology describes Orion being carried into the sky riding on the back of a dolphin and then gifted three stars by the gods. This constellation is now known as Orion’s Belt. Like Orion, our remarkable journey from Southeast Alaska into British Columbia was carried by dolphins–the two killer whale pods we found last week. Orion glowed overhead at 6:00 a.m., and carried our tiny ship through a glassy ocean with a million diamonds shining above.
The sun rose brightly, bathing the shorelines in a deep golden light. In this morning hue, we started our exploration of one of the most spiritually significant locations most will ever visit. SGang Gwaay is a world heritage site located in the southern tip of the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and is a Haida Heritage Site.
On our ride into the protected bay something spectacular happened. We found a female sea turtle swimming on the surface. We were welcomed by two Haida Watchmen, cultural interpreters who were both electrified with the sighting. This was their first time ever seeing a sea turtle here, or anywhere in Haida Gwaii. Honored with this special experience, we landed on shore to explore the site. We separated into small groups, and each watchman told us stories to bring us back in time, visualizing this thriving village site during its peak.
History is usually written by the victors, which makes it hard to find the deeper truths often hiding in the shadows of time. Smallpox was brought by Europeans and decimated 90 percent of the thousands of Haida people. This is said to have been an intentional use of biological warfare. Smallpox is a likely cause of the abandonment of this village site. These people had thrived for centuries, supporting maritime travelers who ventured as far south as California. Today we get to see the remains of the houses, as well as many of the totem poles that are still standing after 120 years. Many of these poles are mortuary poles, built to honor the village chiefs. Walking through the village, we were part of an experience which is better experienced than described. We were honored and changed by our experience.
After hours at the village site, groups would switch activities and return to the ship. Additionally, we spent time in Zodiacs exploring the island and its surrounding islets which offered us good views of harbor seals, humpback whales, black-tailed deer, and dozens of kinds of birds.
