SG̱ang Gwaay, 9/5/2018, National Geographic Sea Bird
Aboard the
National Geographic Sea Bird
Alaska
Toward the southern end of Haida Gwaii sits the remnants of SG̱ang Gwaay, a village that was inhabited until the late 1890s when it was abandoned due to the small pox epidemic. The village is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, part of the Canadian National Park System, and a Haida Heritage Site. It was also the base of our operations today.
Jennifer Davidson is a photographer and educator who specializes in travel, culture, and the art of visual storytelling. She has photographed across the globe, including extensively in Colombia, where she documented remote fishing villages, and Ecuad...
Ashley was raised in Central Oregon where she spent her childhood ski racing, riding horses, playing classical piano, and working summer jobs on a dude ranch. She then attended the School of Cinematic Arts at the University of Southern California in ...
The waters surrounding Bartlett Cove were so calm this morning that we could see the reflection of the National Park Visitor Center Lodge on the ocean. Bright and early, we hiked into a magical part of the Tongass National Forest. Although there was a chill in the air, no precipitation came until much later in the day, just before dinner. Soon after our departure from Bartlett Cove, wildlife was all around us! Humpback whales, Steller sea lions, northern sea otters, and tufted puffins all graced us with their presence along South Marble Island. Later, in Geikie Inlet, we spotted not one, but two bears! An American black bear and a coastal brown bear. We came across dozens of goats at Gloomy Knob and even a northern marmot. Margerie Glacier greeted us just before dinner as National Geographic Sea Lion bobbed amongst the ice. What a fantastic day in Glacier Bay National Park.
After a soggy day in Petersburg, we were thrilled to find our day in Tracy Arm flooded with sunshine instead of raindrops. Winding through the labyrinthine fjord is always an adventure this time of year, and we prepared for a veritable wall of frozen icebergs. But the fjord was surprisingly clear until the final bend, where a thick layer of pan ice stopped us in our tracks. Undeterred, we boarded our Zodiacs, crept below the steep cliffs, and prodded into the pan ice perimeter as far as we dared. Several mountain goats watched us from above, and a couple of curious harbor seals followed in our wake, patiently waiting for the pan ice to melt so they can wiggle onto the massive bergs and pup their young. A handful of humpbacks escorted us north through Stephens Passage, along with some blissfully calm water and more of that rare Alaskan sunshine. We have a long sail ahead of us this evening as we motor more than 160 miles toward mystical Glacier Bay.
As we entered Wrangell Narrows before breakfast and en route to Petersburg, we were met by a pod of about 8 Dahl’s porpoises. They made sure we were properly escorted, as they darted back and forth continuously in front of the bow to the absolute delight of all. Fortunately, no smartphone cameras were lost, although many were hung precariously over the side to capture photos and videos of the amazing performance. After about 25 minutes the porpoises peeled off, presumably to escort another ship entering their domain. After docking and lunch, we had a choice of five activities: two different hikes featuring muskegs, a bike ride or photo tour through town, and a walking tour of Tongass National Forest led by an Alaska Native guide. Because we are in a rainforest, much of our afternoon was under moderate-to-heavy rain, sprinkled with a dash of sun. We returned to National Geographic Sea Lion to view a blazing rainbow off the bow, and to enjoy a particularly rousing recap with a fashion show featuring guests who purchased items of clothing in Petersburg. The festivities continued with our traditional Crab Night dinner, while transiting into tomorrow.
