Shag Rocks, Scotia Sea, 11/6/2023, National Geographic Endurance
Aboard the
National Geographic Endurance
Antarctica
Overnight, we crossed into the Southern Ocean proper: the sea surface temperature dropped from 5 to 2 degrees Celsius. The wildlife composition also changed, with a higher abundance of seabirds and marine mammals. We encountered a large group of long-finned pilot whales before the fog thickened and prevented us from finding wildlife.
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The day began with high winds as we cruised through the dramatic Bay of Isles. The air was filled with excitement as we observed massive icebergs drifting silently amidst the swells. Thousands of king penguins dotted the shorelines near Salisbury Plain, their vivid colors striking against the muted backdrop of the Southern Ocean. Overhead, the skies were alive with birdlife, from skuas and petrels to albatrosses gliding effortlessly on the wind. In the afternoon, we made a memorable landing at Right Whale Bay. Here, we hiked through tussock grass and along rocky terrain to a vast king penguin colony, where the sights and sounds of their thriving community were unforgettable. Some guests ventured farther to reach a glacier, rewarded with stunning views of its icy expanse. Others lingered near the beach, captivated by fur seal pups as they played and explored the shoreline, offering countless photographic opportunities. As the day drew to a close, the dynamic landscapes, vibrant wildlife, and powerful weather reminded us of South Georgia’s untamed beauty and the privilege of exploring this remote corner of the world.
Conditions couldn’t be more pleasant for the first day of our two-day crossing to South Georgia, with fair winds and following seas as our companions all day long. After a full and exciting three days in the Falklands, the calm and restful day was much appreciated by all on board. Our presentation schedule for the day began with, “An Introduction to Penguins of South Georgia,” by this DER’s author, followed by Dr. Deb Goodwin’s talk on, “The Southern Ocean.” Later in the afternoon, we attended a mandatory briefing on guidelines and practices for our visits to both South Georgia and Antarctica, immediately followed by a mandatory biosecurity check and decontamination. The latter is an essential and necessary practice to ensure that we don’t bring any foreign pathogens and organic materials to these two pristine environments. The afternoon concluded with a wonderful lecture from National Geographic Photographer James Whitlow and a delicious teatime service complete with fresh scones. We will need every bit of rest and calories to prepare us for the next several days in South Georgia.
Today was an opportunity to explore Stanley in a variety of ways. Some of us opted to participate in a 6-mile hike to Gypsy Cove. Despite the rain, the scenery was spectacular. Others opted for a tour of the highlights of Stanley which took them on an adventure around some of the popular attractions. After lunch there was an opportunity for more hikes and a visit to Fitzroy Farm to see a live sheep shearing demonstration. For those that wanted a more relaxing afternoon, they had the choice to explore Stanley at their own pace. The day came to a close with a special presentation by Mensun Bound who helped rediscover the original Endurance .