Early in the morning we arrived at the island of Sifnos, one of the western Cyclades. We took the Zodiacs to the hospitable bay of Kamares, then headed to tour Kastro (the castle), one of the island’s most important, fascinating, and beautiful sites. On the short drive, we enjoyed scenes of the Sifnian countryside featuring characteristic stone walls, olive trees, and a number of charming Orthodox chapels in the most unexpected places. It is said that there are more than 235 churches on the island, and many feature typical Cycladic dovecotes.

When we arrived in Castro, we started our walking tour exploring the citadel. Along the narrow, windy paths sat cubic, whitewashed houses, one next to the other. The layout was designed for defensive purposes but today makes us wonder how people managed to organize their lives within such small spaces. We walked under the low vaulted openings and saw some of the castle’s gates wide open. In early times, the wooden doors, reinforced with metal bars, were closed, keeping the population safe.

Then we found ourselves on the castle’s upper plateau from which the views where breathtaking! The deep blue of the Aegean was beautiful. At the foot of the steep hillside, on top of a rock, the small Church of the Seven Martyrs with its blue dome stood surrounded by the sea, exposed to the winds.

When we returned to Kamares, some of us visited the local pottery workshops for which Sifnos is famous. Others went down to the sandy beach and enjoyed a swim in the calm water. It was a beautiful day. There is no doubt why Sifnos is one of the most charming islands under the sun.