Leaving the long, spectacular fjord of Kangerlussuaq after our departure yesterday, we encountered some choppy seas and windy conditions as we turned northwards towards Sisimiut. A little bit of movement can be advantageous when getting accustomed to being on board, especially at the beginning of such a long trip – and we were mollified by some spectacular lighting conditions on the mountains of western Greenland.

Arriving in Sisimiut itself, we were greeted by the cheerful backdrop of the town’s colourful houses. There was a spread of local delicacies for us to sample, including capelin and musk ox, and there were options to explore the end of the famous Arctic Circle trail on a longer hiking excursion, or a shorter guided walk across town to learn about the area’s history and people. Finally, cultural specialist Lars and archaeologist Dan led a walk to the nearby archaeological site of Tele Island. Traces of both the Saqqaq and Thule cultures remain to tell of several millennia of human occupation.

Following the captain’s welcome cocktails, dinner unfolded with increasingly calm conditions and fulmars following the ship northwards through a pastel sunset.