Today we explored the spectacular fjord of Tracy Arm. While all of Southeast Alaska is glacially carved, the ice has done some of its finest sculpture here. This is because of the material in which the ice has worked. Elsewhere, most Southeast Alaskan rock is crumbly and of oceanic derivation, while around Tracy Arm it is granite. Cutting through hard rock, glaciers create intense fjords.
We began our day close to the end of Tracy Arm. Icebergs and milky jade-green water made it clear that tidewater glaciers were nearby. And sure enough, we sighted the South Sawyer glacier.
Hopping into our expedition landing craft we neared the ice. First it was bergs, some of which were huge, sculpted into jagged mountain ranges or soaring peaks, and many were a deep, glowing sapphire. Others were bite-sized and clear or freckled with air bubbles or grains of sand. Seals use bergs as resting places, and no wonder, after swimming through frigid water, what could be cozier than a floating chunk of ice? Though the seals were fun to see, we took care to disturb them as little as possible—no one likes a nap interrupted. As we neared South Sawyer glacier, we were impressed at its deep blue color. Floating in front of the ice, we saw several calvings, including some large enough to rock our little boats.
Just before lunch, some decided to experience life as a seal, at least for a few seconds. Many made the “polar plunge” into iceberg-strewn water with the glacier in the background.
In the afternoon we made our way back down Tracy Arm, admiring the sheer cliffs and rounded domes that towered over us. Crossing the Arm’s entrance bar, we entered Stephens Passage and dropped anchor. Here, we celebrated the Fourth of July with a question and answer session of “America Explained” to our foreign visitors, a kids’ parade, and a final salute with shooting fire hoses.
And after dinner, Justin surprised us with a live dive, narrating as he explored the depths of Alaska waters.
America can be proud of its natural history, with stunning landscapes, and amazing wildlife. America can be proud of its cultural history, including Native art and perspective, designated wilderness and national parks. In exploring Southeast Alaska, we experienced all of these in a rich, varied, and complex mixture.
