Today National Geographic Explorer sailed through Storfjorden, “the big fjord,” which is actually a channel between the islands of Spitsbergen and Edgeøya. The word fjord, which usually defines a closed body of water, was initially used because a small opening to the north of the channel was covered by ice all year round. This blocked passageway made early explorers think that Barentsøya was effectively attached to Spitsbergen.

Our bridge and naturalist team were expecting thick sea ice, indicated on the ice charts from the previous day—but we found hardly any ice at all. Sadly, Arctic sea ice is thinning and melting quickly, unable to last for multiple years. When we ventured deep into the channel, however, our diligence and determination paid off. We found lots of beautiful ice and the many marine mammals whose livelihood it.