After crossing the mouth of the Gulf of Bothnia overnight, a brilliantly sunny morning greeted us as we arrived at the Swedish Archipelago. At 7:30 a.m. the pilot joined us; our guide for the journey through the network of islands that stretch west to the mainland and Stockholm.

Our pilot came out of Sandhamn, the first sheltered harbour that vessels reach when entering the archipelago. There has been a pilot station on the island for hundreds of years for this very reason, and it made a pleasant stop for our morning excursion. Sandön is a small island of only 0.10 square miles and Sandhamn, the main settlement, is home to only 100 people all year round. The island is a popular tourist destination in the summer months, but our visit on April 30 coincided with Walpurgis Night, which traditionally marks the transition of winter to spring in Scandinavia. Our slightly “off-season” visit enabled us to gain a slightly better impression of life in this frontier settlement before the crowds arrive.

Arriving ashore on Zodiacs, our guests explored the beautiful red-painted timber buildings that line narrow paths meandering amongst the rocky outcrops that define the island. On this quiet Sunday morning, villagers gathered timber on Fläskberget Beach in preparation for the evening’s festivities. Outside of Sandhamn, large pine trees grew ever denser as we explored deeper. To the east, the Baltic glimmered in the morning sunlight whilst to the west, the patchwork of islands merged into a near constant coastline on the distant horizon.

By midday we were back on National Geographic Orion and making our way towards Sweden’s capital city. Endless islands passed by on either side, displaying thick pine forests, large rocky outcrops, small settlements and isolated cabins. A constant but ever-changing picture postcard scene.

By 5 p.m. we were close enough to drop Zodiacs for those guests who had elected to enter the city through the old canals. Five Zodiacs made their way along the city’s Grand Canal, once a formal entrance to the harbour. Halfway along came the surprise stop for the guests – cocktails and nibbles that had been sped ahead to a landing pontoon by National Geographic Orion's excellent kitchen staff.

National Geographic Orion herself was berthed at the old town island of Gamla Stan, the cultural and historic heart of the city and only a stone’s throw from the Royal Castle. After a quick dinner, most guests elected to visit the local Walpurgis Night celebrations on the other side of the island.