In theory, one could prepare for a day like today. You could listen to the briefings, take notes during the lectures or overhear stories from the likes of Lawrence Blair and Valerie Taylor of what it was like to visit several decades ago. Even the timing of when it will all start is painstakingly coordinated, as mid morning finds an ordered row of full Zodiacs headed upstream to the village of Agats here in the Asmat region of New Guinea. For a fleeting moment there is a sensation of confidence that occurs when moving in a formation, and then everything you learned, or thought you knew, is replaced by raw wonder. Upon rounding the last river bend we are transported back centuries. Awaiting our arrival are over a hundred wooden canoes, each with a crew of at least four or five fiercely festooned figures. In unison a ululating cry goes up, not some dull roar of a stadium audience, but a rhythmic vocal pulse that strikes a chord deep inside each one of us. The lilting howls rise and fall while as one the flotilla of canoes is moving closer. The men paddling are all standing, easily balancing without the slightest appearance of difficulty, and with swift precise strokes this intimidating welcome party already has us surrounded and herds us to the shore. As we near the landing, the sing-song chanting starts to break down along with the coherency of our escort. Zodiacs and canoes are now all jumbled together providing up close and personal looks at the unique body and face paint that each man has adorned himself with.
Once on land we are ushered in front of the long house where a truly unique ceremony takes place. The Asmat people were renowned for their ferocity and tenacity in warfare, particularly for their penchant of headhunting. This practice obviously resulted in frequent loss of life and to recognize and pay tribute to the fallen an artifact known as a Bis pole was erected. Bis poles were intricately carved out of a single piece of a specifically selected tree and symbolized the promise of revenge and retaliation to appease the spirits. These days, heads are of little interest and Bis poles are erected to celebrate harmony and prosperity. As two of these poles are raised up in our honor, once more a song takes to the air, a frenzied dance begins and we stand in awe of the fervent passion these people are so willing to share with us.
