Morning found National Geographic Sea Lion cruising through Idaho Inlet. Humpback whales filled the morning calm with gasping breaths while Dall’s and harbor porpoises sent sprays of water flying in the sun. Cheers and cries of delight erupted on deck as a playful humpback whale calf breached four times in quick succession.

After breakfast we loaded onto the inflatable boats for a cruise around the Inian Islands. These islands stand at the mouth of Cross Sound, the northernmost entrance to the Inside Passage. The extreme tides so characteristic of Southeast Alaska funnel through this narrow entrance, creating strong currents. Whirlpools, standing waves, and immense upwelling churn the waters, stirring the water column. Bottom-dwelling fish are sucked up to the surface while others, unable to fight the tremendous current, are swept along with the tide. This attracts hungry wildlife, both marine and aerial. Dozens of bald eagles fished the surface while Steller’s sea lions frolicked and foraged in the depths. Humpback whales plied the calmer passages, feeding as they went. Sea otters kept a wary eye on us as they munched on basket stars and groomed at the surface.

We enjoyed lunch as we traveled a short distance to George Island. Hikers explored the island and its abandoned World War II outpost while others explored the surrounding areas by inflatable boat. All around us were reminders of the incredible life in the water, and how everything around the Inian Islands is controlled by the tide.