During the night we crossed back across Hecate Strait, outrunning an approaching storm, back into the tranquil waters of the Inside Passage. Morning found us along the edge of Gribble Island, banked in layers of fog and the occasional squall of rain. We passed a pair of swimming deer, making their way slowly across the mile of water to the next island.

Through the growing wind and mist we continued south, searching the coastline for wildlife. Sharon shared with us the culture of the trade beads and their importance to the Haida. Just before lunch the small outpost of Butedale came into view. Dilapidated stores, cabins, and warehouses listed precariously on their stilts. Mossy pilings rose in jagged lines out of the tide opposite a broad sheeting waterfall. The caretaker, followed by his dog and even a large orange cat, came down onto the functional dock to exchange shouted pleasantries. Our third mate, Ryder, attempted to share some oranges but even with a deft arm the fruit splashed spectacularly into the water just out of reach.

After lunch we cleared the tables and chairs from the dining room and our expedition leader, Rab, taught us contra dance. It was wonderful to laugh and dance as the grey afternoon rolled by outside. Jennifer showed us how to organize and manage the photos we had accumulated during the trip. We crossed Milbanke Sound and encountered some pretty substantial waves, putting most of us to bed for the duration of the crossing. The waves instantly dissipated as soon as we ducked behind the lee of a series of islands, just in time for cocktail hour. We toasted to the miles covered and time well spent catching up on our journals, reading, and sleep before another adventure tomorrow.