A still, bright morning greeted us in Tobermory on the north coast of Mull, perfect for the day’s journey into the small islands of the Inner Hebrides. But before heading out into the open ocean, we had a morning to enjoy the small town of Tobermory, with its colorful waterfront buildings and many shops and cafes. One group set off with Robin and Stewart to walk the coastal trail through a lush forest where native oak and Scots pine grow, along with an abundant amount of non-native rhododendron. The walk was a peaceful outing that ended at a waterfall, where Stewart explained some strategies for filming flowing water.
Ella Potts from the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust (HWDT) boarded the boat in Tobermory to stay with us overnight. The HWDT is an organization that works for the conservation of whales, dolphins, and porpoises across the Hebrides. After lunch we sailed to Eigg rounding the point of the Ardnamurchan Peninsula with its lighthouse perched on the most westerly point of Great Britain. Ella was on deck watching for marine animals and birds, providing information on identifying the species and their natural history. Along with many guillemots, gannets, and Manx shearwaters, we were delighted to see a minke whale and a porpoise.
We arrived into the Isle of Eigg mid-afternoon. Eigg is marked by the imposing An Sgùrr, a prominent rocky peak that dominates the island’s skyline. An Sgùrr (Gaelic for the rocky crag) was formed around 50 million years ago during a volcanic period. A flow of lava filled an ancient river bed and the surrounding rock subsequently eroded down, leaving the peak as it stands today. The entire island is a community-owned estate, purchased when the land went up for sale in the 1990s. This community buyout was part of the beginning of a land reform movement that resulted in many community-owned estates and woodlands across Scotland. We had time for walking on the island, either independently or joining Robin and Stewart for a guided walk, on which we saw curlews, oystercatchers, and even a few chickens pecking along the shoreline. And then Brian showed up on his bike, providing a wee dram for all of us!
Our good weather allowed for a rare excursion to the Isle of Canna, our berth for the night. As we sailed from Eigg to Canna, Ella gave a presentation on Scotland’s marine species and the work of the HWDT. Their programs include monitoring Scotland’s killer whale population and supporting a community wildlife sightings network, in which they train local people to collect information on the surrounding marine environment. Recently, HWDT’s research resulted in the creation of a Special Area of Conservation designed to protect harbor porpoises.
We stayed on Canna for the night, a small island with a population less than 30. After dinner we took a stroll along the shore in beautiful evening sunlight, which provided a nice end to the day.
