Torres del Paine, 10/16/2018, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Patagonia
The legendary, jagged-mountain vistas of Torres del Paine are the very reason many make their way to Chile, and yet, high winds and dense clouds often obstruct the view. But today, when National Geographic Explorer visited the area, the weather gods were the kindest they could be. With an immense blue sky above and view one for which one waits a lifetime, guests explored the rolling hills, searching for wildlife. They were rewarded with sightings of several mountain lions and brackish lakes full of pink flamingos and black-necked swans. From there, we headed south to wilder places, full of gratitude.
Paul North is the founder of the educational nonprofit Meet the Ocean and host of its online podcast. As a polar diver with Lindblad Expeditions/National Geographic, he tours the remote underwater landscapes of Antarctica and other sub-zero destinati...
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The first rays light up the northwestern branch of the Beagle Channel. In the distance mountains glow in pale yellows and oranges as well as the water’s many birds, including a flock of hundreds of sooty shearwaters as they search for food. By breakfast we are at the entrance of the Garibaldi Fjord, steep gray rock walls on either side, and at the end the beautiful eponymous glacier. We head out on Zodiac cruises to get closer views of the tortured rocks, beautiful waterfalls, stunted forests, and of course wait for the glacier to calve. It obliges us many times. During the afternoon, we nose into the Romanche Fjord and then head out to sail along the Beagle Channel. Along the way we encounter many seabirds. Before dinner we attend the captain’s farewell cocktails and enjoy the guest slideshow before heading down to our special asado dinner! Our remarkable expedition through the Chilean Fjords is coming to an end. We have all witnessed some amazing wildlife encounters and marveled at the beauty of the Torres del Paine Massif. Memories we have aplenty, which will be cherished for many a year.
This morning, we awoke to the awe-inspiring beauty of the Agostini Channel surrounded by towering peaks and glaciated landscapes. The rain and overcast skies couldn't dampen our spirits as we set out for a thrilling adventure in these remote fjords, where glaciers’ icy tongues stretched down to meet the ocean. The morning excursion, though cold and wet, was unforgettable. We explored the rugged coastline by Zodiacs and kayaks, navigating through brash ice and beneath thundering waterfalls. After thawing out and warming up, we gathered for a delicious lunch, followed by the disembarkation briefing in the ice lounge. Alyssa then captivated us with her presentation on kelp ecology, giving us a deeper understanding of this unique ecosystem. By the afternoon, the weather cleared and the sun even peeked through the clouds from time to time. We ventured out for a hike along a pristine beach, taking in the breathtaking sight of a crystal-clear lake framed by another magnificent glacier. Right after recap, our day ended with a golden hour of stunning views, including the towering Mount Sarmiento. As we settled in for the night, the promise of one last day of Patagonian adventure awaited.
At Karukinka Park this morning, we were greeted by over thirty Andean condors soaring above the majestic mountains that border Jackson Bay. Once on the beach, we then observed over seventy elephant seals. This park is so very special as it is a protected area located on Tierra del Fuego. It is administered through the Wildlife Conservation Society, a nature protection organization that was founded in 1895. A short hike to a nearby waterfall, a longer hike up the valley to a viewpoint, and a beach walk to view the elephant seals were activities enjoyed by guests. Our navigation then took us to Ainsworth Bay where we were able to make a beach landing and enjoy a walk through a Nothofagus temperate forest. Our walk then continued over adjacent land that was a landscape dominated by ponds, streams, and bogs caused by an altered drainage system due to intense beaver activity. It was another wonderful day in beautiful Patagonia.