Morning found National Geographic Sea Lion cruising north up Stephens Passage. We turned into Holkham Bay at breakfast, entering Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness. A shallow rocky bar, the ancient terminal moraine of the glaciers, trapped giant icebergs in the bay. We watched as delicate frozen arches collapsed into the sea and marveled at the beautiful blue hue of the ice.
Dense forests of alder and spruce climbed the steep granite walls of Tracy Arm. Towering mountains loomed along either side of the narrow waterway, rising sheer and grey above us. The remnants of annual snow still capped the highest ridges, their melt turning into waterfalls that tumbled in sheets down the cliffs. Winds buffeted the water into chop, and hats and warm gloves became necessary to keep vigil on the bow. Two huge cascades thundered down to the turquoise water just beyond our bow. The dramatic scenery was a perfect backdrop for a presentation by Sharon Granger on the culture and art of the Pacific Northwest.
Bergybits and growlers, smaller counterparts to the towering icebergs, led us like stepping stones towards the glaciers. Shortly before lunch we approached Sawyer Island to gain our first view of the two glaciers. The grey-green waters were clear of ice towards Sawyer Glacier, and we were able to approach the face just in time to see some dramatic calving. After lunch we boarded the inflatable boats and slalomed through bergybits on our way towards South Sawyer Glacier. The ice was packed into a solid mass extending half a mile out from the face of the glacier. Harbor seals dotted the ice as they rested and warmed in the sunlight. The mournful calls of seal pups competed with the quiet snapping and popping of ice in the water. Thunderous booms echoed through the fjord like cannon fire as house-sized pieces of ice fell over twenty stories into the ocean. We sat with the engines off, watching and listening to a most pristine and rugged wilderness.
We left the ice and the seals in the early evening, retreating back down Tracy Arm to Holkham Bay. We shared a final recap and dinner as icebergs passed serenely by. Humpback whales met us in Stephens Passage with languid breaths and waves of their large flukes. The evening sun darted between clouds. Wind riffled the placid water. A magnificent day spent in a dramatic setting, and the perfect way to end a wonderful week exploring Alaska’s coastal wilderness.
