Our morning on the island of Utö was blessed with perfect weather. The calm water surrounding the National Geographic Orion shimmered like glass as we rode Zodiacs to shore for excursions that included guided bike and walking tours. One of the joys of this trip is the flexibility provided for independent exploration, and I decided to take a bike to explore the island on my own. As I peddled along I traveled down enticing forest paths and spotted deer bounding through the fields. The late-August sunlight shined down soothingly across a cloudless sky. Then I heard the rat-a-tat of what sounded like gunfire off in the distance…quite an incongruous sound in this otherwise idyllic setting.
I later learned that the southern part of Utö, much to the chagrin of local residents, is home to one of the Swedish military’s firing ranges, and the tranquility of this island on the Swedish archipelago is shattered occasionally by the sounds of artillery being blasted into the sea. This may sound strange coming from a country with a reputation as peaceful as Sweden’s, but recent aggressive moves by Russia, their Baltic neighbor and historical nemesis, have heightened their insecurities. In fact, this lovely vacation spot was invaded by Russia in 1719, and locals still talk about the damage done. Learning about geopolitical realities is part of the educational experience of these expeditions, however, and it was interesting to learn about how centuries-old power struggles continue to impact the region.
Biking to the opposite end of the island I eventually found myself standing in the middle of an evergreen forest, with a straight packed earth path leading far into the distance ahead of me. The sun was piercing through the leaves, drawing sharp shadows on the bright green moss underfoot. The woods were completely silent, and I was convinced I’d just discovered a hidden pathway, perfect for recommending as a future Lindblad excursion. That was, until I saw the guided bike tour coming in the opposite direction. It turns out that the excellent local guides know all the secret spots already.
After enjoying the coffee and pastries a local cafe provided, and the beautiful weather our expedition leader had especially arranged for us, we all headed back to the ship for lunch and an afternoon of fascinating presentations. Koen Kleijn, our cultural specialist, explained who really rules the Baltic, and Ann Wilson, our resident art historian, lectured about Scandinavian design. She began with 19th century Swedish painter Carl Larsson, and ended with the inevitable conclusion…the history of the world-famous IKEA brand.
Putting away my notebook and pen, I donned my life vest and grabbed my camera for a picturesque Zodiac tour into the Stockholm harbor. It was a lovely time of day for taking silhouettes, with a low and extremely bright sun warming our leisurely tour. I’ve come to expect surprises on Lindblad trips, but nothing could have prepared me for the sight of a mobile bar transported on a Zodiac by our excellent crew to the middle of a Swedish canal. We pulled alongside, passed around margaritas (I chose the non-alcoholic option) and hors d’oeuvres, and continued down the canal, toasting the other boats we sailed by.
