Calm and soft would be the best description of the conditions for our early wakeup, deep in Arnarfjörður, named after the first Norse settler of the region. At the head of the fjord is Dynjandisvogur, the “thundering waterfall,” one of the most spectacular of the many famous waterfalls in Iceland. The lower half is a series of cascades and drops through narrow gorges, with a well-developed trail leading to the base of the upper falls. A diaphanous veil of water seems to pour out of the sky over the many layers of basalt, which form sharp cliffs lining the fjord. With slowly clearing skies, we had opportunities to both hike the trails and kayak in the still waters below.

Under brilliant afternoon weather, we transited north to Ísafjarðardjúp with time to enjoy two presentations and the many amenities of National Geographic Endurance while getting to know our fellow explorers. In the early evening, we arrived at Vigur, an island bird sanctuary with great numbers of Arctic terns, black guillemots, puffins, and common eiders. Eider down is sustainably collected here, and we enjoyed a fascinating description of the process and a tour of the island.