We began today’s expedition at dawn in the mist and rain-shrouded passages in the northern end of Johnstone Strait. After checking in with marine station Victoria, we headed into Blackfish Sound, on the lookout for wildlife. No sooner had we entered the seemingly placid waters when we encountered sea lions swimming, a solo loon, and at least four humpback whales diving and breaching.

We watched in awe from a safe distance and then moved on to the mouth of the sound where the flood tidewaters from Queen Charlotte Strait push against the existing tidewaters from Johnstone Strait. This is where upwelling occurs, and the food supply is rich, and we marveled at juvenile male sea lions congregating on a rocky nearshore. By noon, we approached Cormorant Island and our destination of Alert Bay, where we explored the Museum of the U’mista Cultural Centre and were treated as guests by dancers of the Kwakwaka’wakw Nation.