A day at sea is a great way to recharge the batteries, rest, relax, but also to reflect. We woke to a relatively calm sea, but with fog of varying thickness over the course of the day, there were not a lot of chances to search for wildlife. But thinking back over our journey so far, it was hard to believe we had started in Svalbard and ventured so far. Jan Mayen was an added bonus, an isolated rock in the middle of nowhere, with a unique history and moon-like landscape. But here we were in the Greenland Sea, somewhere between Greenland and Iceland, bobbing along, peering into the fog.

We were kept informed throughout the day, with presentations from David, Steve, Brent and Elise. Luckily there was still time to nap, and have afternoon tea.

As we went to dinner, out of the fog rose dark cliffs, still with much snow and ice. We had arrived upon the coast of Iceland, and shortly thereafter the Fjord of Isafjardup. And what better way to be welcomed than by seven or eight humpback whales! We headed out on to the bow of the ship after dessert and watched the humpbacks as they feed all around us, with shallow dives, yet often showing their flukes. At one stage we had a humpback right under the bow, showing its huge white pectoral fins, and blowing spray into the air with a guttural exhalation. What a welcome…