Once the National Geographic Endeavour has repositioned herself to the center part of the archipelago, we see the first light at 5:30 in the morning, revealing a very different setting from what we have seen over the last few days. We are anchored in Sullivan’s Bay, at the easternmost tip of James Island. This area has been subject to violent eruptions, and although these events date back at least a century, sometimes several dozens of centuries, the topography makes one think it was only yesterday.
Volcanic features are preserved for a relatively long time in Galapagos, for the climate is relatively stable and therefore maintains current conditions of the tuffs, basalts and cinders for many centuries to come. The only true damage to these rocks is a result of the constant exposure to intensive sunlight and an occasional year of heavy rainstorms, during an El Niňo-Southern Oscillation event. Sunlight and heavy rain cause erosion, but not as impacting as big storms and heavy seas, which are so common outside of the tropics.
On top of this, Bartholomew islet sits just north of an enormous lava flow, which produces a high localized pressure. Therefore, any rain brought by the southern trade winds will, more often than not, skip Bartholomew. The little vegetation that this islet hosts, thoughtfully named the gray mat plant, evolved to survive long droughts and intense heat. The tiny white flowers it produces are the primary food source for the local lava lizards, due to the lack of their usual prey—insects. It is thought that extra tough conditions like these speed up speciation, eventually leading to a new species. There are many of these pockets, with their own micro climates, in the archipelago.
We head out to walk to the top of Bartholomew before breakfast. It is a nice exercise while the air temperature is still relatively cool. After several hundred wooden steps, the reward is an emblematic and detailed view, and our guests are snapping away, trying to capture all that beauty in the best way possible.
After we return to the ship for breakfast, it is time for our next outing, this time to a small golden beach where we will snorkel in clear, calm water. The excellent conditions allow us to admire the wide variety of corals and reef fish, an occasional white-tipped reef shark and even a Galapagos penguin, although the latter is too swift to follow for many snorkelers.
During lunch, the National Geographic Endeavour, moves towards our afternoon stop, a small islet called Chinese Hat. The same stark volcanic features dominate our view, and once more we head out for snorkeling. This time, many of us have a more lasting encounter with penguins, since there are several in the calm waters, seemingly oblivious or ambivalent to our presence, hunting the small anchovies that litter our underwater view.
Back on board, we get ready for a Zodiac ride along the coast of Chinese Hat and James Island, where we spot crab-hunting shore birds, roosting Galapagos Penguins, and sea lions, all in the forgiving yellow light of the oncoming sunset. Another incredible day in the Enchanted Islands!
