Today, en route to the Svalbard archipelago, we visited Bear Island, one of the many isolated islands that punctuate the Barents Sea. Conditions were decidedly colder than they have been recently, with gusty winds. We rode a Zodiac to a sheltered bay on the south coast, exploring sea cliffs that are home to thousands of screeching kittiwakes, Brunnich’s guillemots, and fulmars.