Brown Bluff and Duse Bay, 12/13/2017, National Geographic Orion
Aboard the
National Geographic Orion
Antarctica
For many today, stepping ashore at Brown Bluff marked their seventh and final continent. While technically one could walk to the South Pole from this point it would not be an easy hike, so sticking to the much more favorable route our Expedition Leader has developed will be drastically preferable. With weather that couldn’t be more accommodating, we even found time to kayak along the fast ice edge after lunch before heading even further south for more adventures to come.
One steady constant in Ian’s life has been the ocean. Born by the rocky shores of mid-coast Maine, his family repatriated to far north Queensland in Australia early on in his life where he became a dual-citizen and sparked his passion for exploring n...
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We woke up this morning next to the largest iceberg that currently exists on the planet, A23a. It was a foggy morning, but as we approached the large tabular iceberg, the microclimate of this massive piece of ice lifted the fog enough for us to see the ice edge that kept going as far as the eye could see. This was the most momentous event of our day as we headed toward the South Orkney Islands, and the fog moved in and stuck around the ship for the rest of the day. Throughout the day, we had talks from our expedition team about the history of whaling, penguins of the Antarctic peninsula, and the science that occurs at South Georgia. We also had another biosecurity session to prepare our gear for Antarctica. The day came to an end with recap and a lovely meal prepared by the galley team. Tomorrow, we will reach the South Orkney Islands.
In our typical tradition, we began operations at Gold Harbour just as dawn was breaking over a stunning bight in the South Georgia shoreline. Snow showers and low clouds cast a dramatic atmosphere over this bustling shoreline, where over 30,000 pairs of king penguins and thousands of elephant and Antarctic fur seals gather to breed each year. It made for a thrilling start to the day. We spent the entire morning here, arranging an after-breakfast landing and hike for those who chose not to join us in the wee hours of the morning. With a marked improvement in the weather, the second morning landing truly made for a complete experience here. Hikers set out to explore the plateau that rises over the beaches and colony, while the rest of the guests took in the awe-inspiring sights and sounds of the third largest king penguin colony on South Georgia Island. The afternoon was spent cruising the dramatic coastline of the island about seven miles offshore, where we encountered what can best be described as “whale soup.” Humpback, fin, and even blue whales surrounded the ship, offering a perfect farewell to South Georgia.
We awoke to some stunning scenery in Godthul Bay on the north coast of the Barff Peninsula. Godthul is the location of one of seven land-based whaling stations that were operational on South Georgia, though it was possibly the smallest. South Georgia has glaciers that terminate in the sea and occasionally give birth to icebergs. The coast of the island is currently littered with icebergs that are mere fragments of the mega iceberg A76, which was roughly the same dimensions as South Georgia! This much ice is a real treat. One of those fragments has made its way into Godthul Bay and is currently home to several gentoo penguins. That and some very calm weather, another treat, made for some fantastic Zodiac cruises and kayaking conditions.
