We started our day in Pavlov Harbor, a cozy anchorage in Chichagof Island’s eastern flank. 

Soon after breakfast we were headed ashore for a walk. Many explored the coast at low tide, finding barnacles, mussels, and a variety of sea stars. Others headed for the forest. Bears are abundant in this area, particularly when salmon are spawning. We saw the plants whose roots they love to dig, as well as their favorite fishing grounds. And we heard about how bears and salmon stitch trees together with the Aleutian Islands. Above the waterfall—the surmounting of which can be challenging to salmon as well as to many of us—we found a pond that is home to beavers. We saw artifacts of their industriousness. Meanwhile, others were paddling about the harbor by kayak, finding solitude and quiet in Pavlov’s protected waters.

In the afternoon we motored down Chatham Strait. We kept more than a few eyes peeled for marine mammals while naturalists presented a couple of lectures.

Late in the afternoon we ducked into Hood Bay in Admiralty Island. This island, home to the densest population of brown bears on the world, was once slated for logging. Concern for its preservation began the modern inclination toward preservation of the Tongass National Forest. We scanned the shores for wildlife and enjoyed the scenery of this wild part of Southeast Alaska before heading toward tomorrow’s walks near Fredrick Sound.