Today was the ultimate Arctic day – wildlife, landscapes, ice, weather changes – requiring recharging of camera batteries at least twice.

Throughout the night the ship made steady and quiet progress north along the west coast of the main island of Spitsbergen.

This morning we changed course and entered a series of narrow channels between islands. On our starboard side were the large islands of Danskøya and Amsterdamoya. We saw a lot of birds along the way as well as an old hunter’s cabin. After a while we headed north again and sailed between the islands of Fuglesongen and Klovningen.

We had a presentation from Becky Hale, the National Geographic photo instructor on board. Becky’s ability to capture abstract ideas and concepts within formatting constraints showed the yin and yang of creativity and problem solving. 

As we passed 80 degrees north we looked for wildlife along the ice edge, listened to the sounds of the ship breaking the ice and watched the changing colors, shapes, and patterns of the ice. The ranges of blues, greys, and whites, along with circles, squares, and triangles were mesmerizing and meditative.  Hanging your head over the bow gave a sense of aloneness and connection to the ice while also recognizing the power of the ship.

Shortly after lunch a bearded seal was spotted napping on the ice. While at times the seal appeared to be posing for cameras, looking up and tilting its head, it was more likely scanning the ice for polar bears.

As the afternoon progressed the bridge became a hotspot of activity, and guests helped the captain scan the ice and water for wildlife. There were many promising polar bear tracks and after a while the captain saw a polar bear! The captain and crew quickly moved into action and steered us closer and closer to the bear. Scars on its rear suggested a walrus might have attacked it. As the ship backed away those who lingered also got some great views of two walruses swimming close to the ship. A little later we also saw another polar bear and her cub. They seemed to be playing hide and seek with us as they wove in between and behind the rocks just at the base of the glacier.

After dinner we explored Smereenburgenfjord with beautiful views. During our Zodiac cruises we saw a bearded seal and a beluga whale and got to listen to some small ice calving. All, even those who stayed on the ship, were treated to breath taking panoramas.