The daylight hours this far south begin at around 3 a.m. and extend until almost midnight, so there has been plenty of opportunity for sightseeing. After a bit of wind last night, the seas have calmed to almost lake-like conditions this morning in the spectacular Danco Island for our morning activities. Over the intercom, our expedition leader Lisa Kelley’s soft voice says, “Good morning, its 32 degrees outside with minimal winds and a gorgeous day in Antarctica.” Everyone was enthusiastic to land on shore to visit several small colonies of gentoo penguins spread out over the snow-covered land climbing up to an 800-foot plateau affording a spectacular view of a bay filled with blue glacial icebergs. From my vantage point on this summit, I could see the yellow kayaks plying the clear waters amongst the surreal ice leaving small wakes that seem to roll into infinity. Over the radio the announcement came, “Today is a great day for a polar plunge.” Back on the ship we had around 30 intrepid guests take the plunge on this clear blue day into the 28 degree water for only a brief moment. Comments between gasps of breath ranged from, “Wow, exhilarating” to, “Now that was dumb.”
We relocated the ship to our next equally beautiful destination of Neko Harbor, which was surrounded by an incredible tidewater glacier and again more gentoo penguins waiting for the snow to melt to carry on with their seasonal nesting. The highlight of Neko Harbor was a hike to a glacier overlook that had the most stunning panoramic view of our seemingly small ship dwarfed by this immense glacier, which sporadically calved with a thundering sound. Two of our guests planned their wedding for this perfect day at this destination where Captain Skög read them their vows overlooking this exquisite scene. A timely calving of the glacier and an ensuing toast with champagne followed the nuptial kiss.
The scent of BBQ permeated the pure cold air as we returned to the ship and a party ensued on the sundeck as we cruised the scenic Errera Channel in mirror-like conditions that reflected every glacier, iceberg, and snow-covered peak. After dinner, everyone gathered on the bow or bridge to experience the Lemaire Channel in its finest glory. The sea ice was thick enough to feel the surge as the ship worked her way through the ice below towering mountains on both sides. As we turned and made our way out of the channel, Mother Nature provided us with one of the most stunning sunset possible. The ice crystals blowing off of the peaks created a scarlet red halo as a crepuscular ray shot out of the gap between soaring mountains. This was the type of day that you pinch yourself wondering if it is a dream. It is not a dream, this is Antarctica.
