Having traveled together in Alaska for some days, we have become quite used to the relentless scenery here. But we saved the best day for last.
Endicott Arm is a fjord that cuts deeply into southeast Alaska’s side. Most of Alaska is accretionary, meaning that it is formed of rock plastered to the edge of North America through the subductive process. But far into the mountains we find “the roots of subduction”—plutonic rocks like granite and gneiss. These rocks have never been smashed up by accretion, and are very durable. Thus, they are a glacier’s finest sculpting material. Elsewhere in Alaska glaciers carve fjords with fairly open walls, but here in Endicott Arm the rock walls soar thousands of feet, nearly straight up from the water’s edge. Deep striations have been cut into rock of beautiful striped patterns. And hidden in the clouds stand rounded peaks, reminding us that no matter how impressive the topography, all was smothered in ice not so many thousand years ago.
Travelling up the arm, we saw seawater turn from dark green to a beautiful jade color, sure sign that a tidewater glacier was near. Bergs appeared, and some here were huge. And at last we spied the Dawes Glacier. We hopped into our small rubber boats to get an intimate view of our surroundings. From small boats, the icebergs were all the more impressive, and many were large enough to resemble miniature mountain ranges, with saw-toothed edges, or were broad enough so that, fitted with crampons, one might play a tolerable tennis game. Other bergs were smaller and were formed as to resemble swans, whales or dragons. Seals lay about on some of the bergs. They come here to give birth to their pups, and though drivers did all we could to leave them undisturbed, we did manage to get a few good looks at these whiskered sausages.
Great waterfalls tumbled down the sides of the valley, stair-stepping from the clouds in what seemed a slender ribbons, but growing to mighty cascades that entered the sea with an imposing rumble.
At last we neared the glacier. Strangely, no one bothers to look at this glacier with much scientific care, but we guess it is about two-thirds of a mile wide, and stands about 25 stories above the water. Waiting in front of the ice, we all saw several impressive calvings, and some were lucky enough to see a whole ice pinnacle, or “serac”, crash into the sea.
After warming up with some tasty chili, a few tried a “polar plunge.” We set out a couple of boats, and the bold, though not necessarily the wise, leapt into the water from one and swam to the other. The temperature of the water inspired some shrieks of surprise and some mighty fast swimming, with a few swimmers getting from boat to boat with only the soles of their feet and their fingertips actually entering the water.
Endicott Arm offers some of Southeast Alaska’s most impressive scenery, and spending a day there is a fitting way to finish a fine trip exploring this amazing part of the world.
