We awoke to beauty. The National Geographic Explorer floated calmly in front of a glacier chosen specially by our Chilean navigation pilots on board, a holding area to await the daylight needed for us to safely traverse the English Narrows. All hands were on deck for the weaving passageways of the narrows, a spot that must have been quite a nervous endeavour when the likes of Magellan were first passing through. The afternoon was full of ice once again, this time in front of the longest glacier in the whole of South America: Pio XI – named after none other than the Pope himself.