It’s early in the morning, overcast, but one can still see the silhouette of the impressive and young volcanoes of the western realm of the Galápagos.

We land on Fernandina, not only to see but to feel. Just by having the privilege of walking on lava centuries old brings us wonder and contentment. But there is more to observe and experience. The sun comes out to fill in with colors the tidal pools, the mangroves, the lava cactus that shine with the first morning rays. Iguanas sunbathe, sea lion babies play, cormorants dry their wings. We have been transported to the very beginning of life on this archipelago, and quietly witness its delicate balance and beauty.

Being in the richest area of the Galápagos, we need to understand why. Therefore Cindy Manning, our undersea specialist, gives a talk about marine currents and their influence in shaping the climate of this isolated archipelago.

The afternoon begins with a chance to snorkel at Punta Vicente Roca, which is at its best: dozens of sea turtles, several penguins, and flightless cormorants all join us in the water and continue with their business while we marvel and enjoy. Then we go for a Zodiac ride with ocean sunfish leaping out of the water. We see brown noddy terns perched along the tuff layers of a parasitic volcano, and more turtles, cormorants, and penguins.

We weigh anchor and sail north to cross the Equator line. On our way to parallel Zero, we are delighted by a perfect and brief green flash, then Venus, and finally the moon rising, almost full.