The morning dawned sunny and clear, with a hazy island in the distance. Fogo, fourth largest in terms of area and among the southern group of Cape Verde islands, was both alluring and patient as the ship cleared customs and everyone prepared for their time ashore. The island of Fogo erupted from the sea a few hundred thousand years ago, shaping a steep volcanic island that continues to be active; the most recent lava flows occurred in 2014 with significant impact to nearby communities. Independent from Portugal in 1975, the Cape Verde islands are a unique nation located off the coast of Mauritania featuring a fusion culture of both Portuguese and African influence.
Many of our group enjoyed a drive up and around the island, following switchbacks on narrow roads to reach altitudes over 1800m and explore the 9-kilometer diameter ancient caldera of the original volcano. We crossed multiple pahoehoe and a’a lava flows of different ages, passed walls and homes built of basalt stones, and considered the challenges of living in the shadows of such a dynamic presence. With help from natural fertilizers and careful rainwater management, volcanic soils can be agriculturally viable. Fogo’s caldera hosts a small wine industry featuring white, red, and rose varieties, which all had the opportunity to taste; cashews, pomegranate, fig, apple, papaya, and mango trees also grow in this area. The juxtaposition of bright green vegetation against black sands was dramatic and powerful. Residents believe that the volcano gives and takes away—we witnessed this firsthand when visiting two villages now inundated with lava from the 2014 eruption, and the homeowners already rebuilding in the same locations.
The rest of the ship’s company spent their afternoon in the charming town of Sao Felipe, visiting a museum that told the story of the island’s history and recent volcanic activity. In a small colonial house, they had the opportunity to try island-grown coffee and learn about local coffee production methods. Wine and cheese tasting rounded out the day.
