Zapote River & Supay Caño
We had arrived relatively early to our docking spot (a tree) near the mouth of the Zapote River. A little bit inside there is a community of ribereños that consider the river to be their own. They make sure no lumbering of tropical hardwoods takes place beyond subsistence levels, and the same goes for the fishing and hunting. As a result, the rain forest on both banks is in excellent condition, and we had come in search of the monk saki—a hairy monkey a bit like “Cousin It” from the Addams Family.
We all got an early start as we have come to accept as the most productive time of day for encountering wildlife. Squirrel monkeys were the first to come to our attention, as well as toucans, hawks, and others now familiar to all. Kayakers got into their kayaks and had a wondrous time of riding the light current downstream.
Finally, close to our time to return, a call from our fellow skiff gave us the head’s up they had found some high in a dark-leaved tree. Now experienced with binoculars, it wasn’t long before we all could see their hairy, bushy tails hanging down. Their faces are bare, with an old, worried expression. For quite a while they allowed us to gaze at them before finally moving out of sight.
Before leaving the river we made a courtesy stop at the entrance to their community where women and children had come to sell their handicrafts. Necklaces and bracelets and handbags made of the hard rain forest seeds were on display, as well as quite a few prepared piranha skulls, teeth bared menacingly. They are eaten regularly when caught in the nets, so being able to sell the jaws is an added benefit.
Children, of course, gathered round to look and watch us. It was also fun to watch their expressions when our naturalists started to distribute school supplies! Very orderly, they stood in line with no fuss for their turn.
For the remainder of the morning and to mid-afternoon we sailed down the Ucayali River, now heading downriver as we approached our last full day in the Peruvian Amazon. One more river and our last kayaking opportunity took place at “Supay Caño” or “Supai Creek.” Every time we use the skiffs to explore a river or creek, we have the potential of finding unexpected sights and organisms. I never get tired of it!
Back on board for sunset, Pisco Sours for a farewell cocktail, our unique, one-of-a-kind photo movie to watch in the company of friends new and old. It doesn’t get too much better than this. We celebrated the evening with music and dancing, already cherishing the memories made this week.
The Amazon is too big for words. Images and experiences just begin to add the dimension necessary to appreciate its scale, diversity and mystery. It is a place one can return to and always find something new.
