Helsinki, Finland

An overnight transit across the upper Baltic and into the Gulf of Finland brought us dockside in Helsinki just before lunchtime today. The skies had darkened a bit, and a chill wind blustered about the city as we set out to make the most of the port – our seventh country and fifth capital city on this remarkable journey. Perhaps, the weather was simply trying to remind us of how much winter dominates this sparsely populated country, one-third of which lies above the Arctic Circle. However, the summer is fast approaching as evidenced by city’s bustling residents and the air of anticipation on this Sunday afternoon.

Though Finland has had human occupants for over 10,000 years, the country has only recently begun to make its mark upon the world as an independent nation. For the past millennium, the Finns have found themselves in the unenviable position of being sandwiched between neighboring Russia and other world powers; first, Sweden, then Germany, and later the United States. Sweden actually made Finland a province in the mid-12th century, which forced many citizens to flee east. During Swedish rule, the island fortress of Suomenlinna was built just outside of Helsinki-proper in order to protect the Swedish trading routes and to serve as a first line of defense against Russia. The fortress, though formidable, was not able to prevent Russian occupation in the 1800’s. Finland has waged over 40 wars with their eastern neighbors, but has been able to maintain peaceable relations for the last half-century. During this time of peace and neutrality, Helsinki has played an important role in bringing about an end to the Cold War and greatly improving the nation’s international standing.

Throughout all these changes in rule, war, and peace, the massive island fortress, a registered World Heritage Site, has remained and serves as a stunning greeting to all those who enter the city by sea. Some of us even took advantage of a short water-taxi trip to become better acquainted with the fortress and its accompanying museum. The island now offers a scenic, relaxing way of spending the afternoon or entire day and is an ideal setting for two things the Finns hold very dear...silence and reflection.