The Normandy Beaches

Today was a day of learning, remembering, and contemplating about D-Day and the lessons of war. We traveled from Ouistreham along the historic Normandy beaches, eventually arriving in Cherbourg, where the Endeavour had repositioned.

Our first stop, though, was on the edge of Caen at the Pegasus Bridge. This bridge played a key role in transport across the River Orne and fortunately was one of the first successful captures by the Allies. We then wound our way along country roads to a viewpoint overlooking the village of Arromanche, which was the main British landing site—code name Gold Beach. Just off shore, we could see the remains of one of the artificial harbors established by the Allied Forces to maintain a supply line to the ground troops. A short distance from here, we were able to inspect the massive German gun emplacements and wonder what the noise and fear must have been experienced inside.

Lunch at the four-star Chateau de la Cheneviere in Port-en-Bessin was a delightful respite from the intriguing but grim story of the invasion. Our botanist William Lopez-Forment busied himself exploring the chateau grounds and recording the many exotic species of trees and other plants growing there. Most of the rest of us enjoyed Bordeaux red wine and exquisite little sweets.

We continued our history lesson at the beautiful American Cemetery perched above Omaha Beach, one of the American landing sites. Over 9,000 precisely aligned, brilliant white marble crosses march across an emerald green lawn—a sobering spectacle. Our next stop was the monument at Pointe de Hoc, about eight miles west of the cemetery. This monument honors the 2nd Ranger Battalion, which scaled the 100-foot high cliff, all the while under German fire.

Our final visit was to the charming little village of Ste-Mere-l’Eglise. Paratrooper John Steele from the 82nd Airborne Division got caught on the church bell tower when the division overshot their drop site. Helplessly, he witnessed the slaughter of his companions as they landed in the Nazi-occupied town.

As we all know, the invasion was the major turning point in World War II. As France was liberated, some of the townspeople played American jazz, which to them was a symbol of freedom. And surprisingly and fittingly, when we arrived at the port of Cherbourg, we were welcomed with a jazz trio and singer and refreshing glasses of the local apple cider.