Queen Charlotte Sound & Alert Bay

Having cleared our obligatory immigration stop in Prince Rupert the evening before, we proceeded down Grenville Channel on our way south toward Queen Charlotte Sound.

Small ocean swells, 3-4 feet high, approached from the west, reminding us of the protection we usually receive within the inland waterway. Despite the Sea Bird’s rhythmic dance, David Stephens gave us a first-rate look at the art and culture of British Columbia. Beautiful artifacts and exhibits, many of which were made by him in years past, matched his lively and informative presentation to a full house.

Two hours later, with weather cooperating, we made it to the shelter of Vancouver Island. We soon found ourselves in the company of hundreds of sooty shearwaters, dozens of common murres, pigeon guillemots, murrelets, jaegers, and a single rhinoceros auklet. Sharp-eyed observers on the bow also spotted two harbor porpoise and a Dall’s porpoise, as well as some distant whale blows.

Around four in the afternoon, we glided into Alert Bay, and were soon secured alongside their guest dock. The water was crystal clear, revealing an underwater forest of pilings completely covered with foot-long plumed anemones (Metridium senile), looking as if they were made of the most delicate porcelain. A well-orchestrated fleet of mini-vans transported some to the museum and cultural center, while the rest opted to walk the short distance along the waterfront.

The museum was wonderful and the cultural dance program seemed very genuine, presented with pride and confidence, and reminiscent of a neighborhood baseball game, played by kids and parents, not for the national press, but simply for the love of the game.